How to use Create.Blitch

Not to design. Building and previewing a model is free, with no account and nothing to install. An account is needed to download a file (Creator plan up) — but a free account also saves your designs to the cloud (5 designs; more on paid plans), so they open on your other devices. Your designs are saved in this browser either way, and can be exported to a .json file to back up or move to another machine.

The files you upload — fonts, images, SVGs — are read and traced entirely on your device and never transmitted. That is the part most people are asking about, and it is absolute.

Two things do leave your browser. Your email address, if you make an account. And when you download a file, the finished 3D shape is sent to our server, which writes the STL or 3MF and sends it back — that is how a download is checked against your plan. The shape goes up; your source font or photo never does. The shape is not stored once your file is built. Full detail in the privacy policy.

STL works on any printer and is a single colour. 3MF splits your design into one part per colour, each assigned to a filament — use it for multi-colour prints. Both come from the same model you previewed.

Anything that accepts an STL. The 3MF export is tuned for Bambu Studio (parts pre-assigned to filaments), but the STL is universal.

Not for most prints. The Printer · safety panel defaults to a stock 0.4 mm printer, and a keychain, tag or sign prints fine untouched. Set it up in three cases: you switch printers (change the nozzle, layer height or build-plate size so the print-safety checks match your machine); prints come out slightly over- or under-sized (enter a shrink-compensation % per axis — preview and export scale together); or a fitted part is too loose or tight (calibrate the hole clearance, below). Everything you set is saved to a named printer profile and applies to every generator, so you calibrate once, not per design.

Anything that mates — the stamp handle screwing into its socket, a switch clicker — has Tight / Normal / Loose presets and a Custom value. To measure the right number instead of guessing, open Printer · safety → Calibrate hole fit.

What the test bar is for: every printer prints a hole a little smaller or larger than the digital model — it depends on your machine, nozzle, filament and settings — so a clearance that fits perfectly on one printer is loose or tight on another. The test bar sidesteps the guesswork: it's a single print with six holes at stepped clearances (0.10 → 0.35 mm) and a matching pin, so your own printer shows you which clearance gives the fit you want. Print it, find the tightest hole the pin still enters fully, and hit Apply — that number is saved to your printer profile, and any fit set to Printer profile then comes out right across every generator. Print both mating parts at the same setting.

Yes — the Braille & Tactile Sign generator adds raised Grade-1 (uncontracted) Braille dots on the standard cell grid, with an optional matching printed label. One important limit: the tool lays out the dots but does not certify conformance to any accessibility standard. If the sign must meet a legal requirement (ADA, BP 344 or your local code), print a sample and check the dot size, height and spacing against that standard.

Yes — every text product (keychains, tags, signs, cake toppers, the stamp maker…) has a Curved text option in the Text section: Around top, Around bottom, or Top & bottom. Line 1 wraps along the top, Line 2 along the bottom (both upright, reading left→right), and any further lines stay straight in the centre — so a round badge or a seal is just a few fields. Each curved line keeps its own font and size, and there's an optional inner ring. Set the plate Shape to Circle and it sizes itself to the curve. (On the stamp maker the die reads mirrored on purpose, so the inked impression comes out right.)

Yes — the Trinket Tray generator makes shallow trays and dishes for rings, keys and desk odds, with a rounded rim and a smooth floor. Pick a ready shape (a heart ring dish, a cloud, a divided or woven tray) or grow the tray around a name or word, your own outline, or a set of compartments — including a photo-shaped pocket. Optional wall textures add a pattern around the rim. It prints flat, no supports. Downloading a tray needs the Commercial plan; designing, previewing and saving are free.

Two ways, both in the Picture Frame generator. Slot mode makes a desk frame that holds a real printed photo — the front, back and a fold-out easel print flat and slot together, so there are no supports and nothing to glue. Printed mode prints the picture straight into a bordered plaque as raised artwork, one solid piece. Downloading a frame needs the Commercial plan; designing, previewing and saving are free.

Yes — the Stencil generator turns an image, a motif, or text into a flat cut-out you dust icing sugar or cocoa through onto a cookie or cake. Where a shape would leave a piece floating (the middle of an O, the dot of an i), it adds thin connecting bridges so the stencil stays one piece and prints cleanly.

Yes — Letter & Number Cutters make a cutter shaped like a single letter or number, in any font. Do one character on its own, or a whole set — a name, a date, the alphabet. (For picture- and shape-based cutters, use Cookie Cutter or Image to Cookie Cutter instead.)

Yes. Under any code on the NFC / QR Display Stand (and on the QR Code generator) there's Import from image — feed it a screenshot from your banking or e-wallet app, or a photo of the printed code you already have. It's read on your device and never uploaded.

We don't trace the picture. Tracing a QR rounds and merges its squares, and a code that scans wrong sends money to the wrong account — so the code is read, checked, and rebuilt exactly. For a QR Ph code we verify its checksum and show you who it pays — "Pays JUAN'S BARBERSHOP · MANILA · PHP" — before you print fifty of them. Check that name is your own business. Nothing can tell us whose code it is; only you can.

Two things we will refuse or warn about. A one-time payment code (some apps issue these per payment) works for a while and then stops — useless on a counter sign, so ask your bank for your permanent merchant QR. And if the code doesn't rebuild to exactly what was scanned, we won't use it at all.

Bigger than an ordinary link, because it holds far more data. A phone camera needs each little square to be about 1.2 mm, so a typical QR Ph code wants roughly 45–65 mm across against ~35 mm for a review link. The exact number depends on how much your bank packs in — import yours and the warning quotes the minimum for your code.

Two levers if it's too big: set Code sizing to Set the printed size so every code on the sign comes out the same width regardless of what it holds, and lower Error correction (Medium → Low shrinks it noticeably, at the cost of tolerating fewer scuffs).

No, and nothing that claims otherwise is telling the truth. An NFC tag holds a web link — tapping it opens a page. It cannot carry a bank transfer instruction that a phone will act on. So on a scan-and-tap sign the code takes the payment and the tag is for your menu, reviews or socials. You can have a tag behind each logo if you want different taps in different places.

Nothing is glued. Every piece prints flat and slides into its own slot in the base — the cards in card layout, and in board layout the board itself plus the footer plate if you've given it one. That's also why you can reprint a single card when a link changes without redoing the whole stand.

If a piece is tight or loose in its slot, adjust Slot clearance in the Mounting section rather than reprinting blind — 0.4 mm suits most printers.

Yes, both parts are in the Mounting section. Turn off Print a stand base and you get the flat sign on its own: no floor, no ribs, and no strip reserved at the bottom, so the piece comes back to its natural size. Then turn on Hanging holes and pick one (top centre — it swings level on a single nail), two (along the top, holds it square against a wall) or four (one per corner, steadiest for a wide or heavy sign), and set the diameter — about 1 mm over the screw or nail shank.

You don't have to choose: a base and holes can both be on. The holes go in the board's own corners — never through a topper, which is the thinnest part of the sign — and they hug the edge, so on an arch or a circle each one slides in from its edge until it is fully on the material. At ordinary sizes they cost you nothing: the sign doesn't grow, because they sit in the edge margin that was already there. Nothing on the sign is ever left sitting under a hole, and if a hole can't fit at all the app says so instead of quietly leaving it out.

That strip is the part the stand's ribs grip — it disappears into the slot the moment you assemble the sign. Anything printed there would be hidden, so it's kept clear: the piece grows by the rib height at the bottom and your wording sits above it. Raise the rib height and the piece grows with it; lower it and the strip shrinks. It applies to every piece that slots in — cards, the board, and the footer plate.

Two different controls, in the Mounting section. Base depth is front-to-back and is what stops the sign tipping forward — a tall sign needs a deep base, and the app warns you when it's out of proportion. Base width is side-to-side steadiness: leave it at 0 and the base matches the sign plus a little each side, or type a width to make it broader. It never goes narrower than the slot itself, so a rib always has floor under it.

If you add a footer plate, the base gets a second slot in front of the board and deepens itself to fit both — you'll see a note saying so.

There isn't any more. The board is the solid outline of your artwork — the counter of an O, the gap in a ring, the space inside a horseshoe all fill in — and the artwork itself prints on top of that base in its own colours, so the shape still reads. That matters because anything you put on the sign needs material behind it: a code floating over a hole prints with nothing under it.

If you want the base to show as a border around the artwork rather than being cut to the line, raise Base border around the artwork. That border is reserved: nothing you put on the sign can sit on it and you can't drag anything onto it, so it stays a clean band. If your content is too big to fit inside the artwork, the app says so and points at the two fixes — a larger artwork, or a narrower border.

Only if it has something light behind it. A scanner reads the contrast between the dark squares and their background, so a dark board kills the code. Turn on Panel behind each code and give it its own light colour — it carries the clear margin (the "quiet zone") a scanner needs with it. The app warns you when the contrast is too low to read, but the panel is the fix.

Yes — the Commercial plan includes a resale licence to sell the physical printed items you make, in any quantity, on any marketplace, and the bundled fonts are cleared for that resale. It does not cover reselling the design files themselves — see the next question. If you upload your own font, using it to sell goods is governed by that font's own licence — that part is between you and the font's publisher.

No — on any plan, including Commercial. The licence lets you sell the physical printed items you make, but it does not let you resell or redistribute the exported files — the STL, 3MF or design JSON — as a paid product, a free download, or a file bundle. So they can't be posted to MakerWorld, Thingiverse and the like. You still keep the rights to your own design; this is only about not handing out the files as files. Full detail in the Terms of Service (§6).

Designing, previewing and saving are free for everyone, and most products download on the Creator plan. A few need Commercial specifically to download — scan boards, NFC display stands, picture frames, and trays & dishes — because they're commercial-grade pieces (shop fixtures, framed goods) rather than personal keepsakes. You'll see which plan a product needs before you pay, not at the download button.

Two sources: the bundled open-licence library, available to everyone and cleared for resale, and your own TTF/OTF upload (Creator plan up). An uploaded font stays on your device — it is read in the browser and never sent anywhere.

There's a free plan, plus Creator and Commercial plans, priced for your region. See the full breakdown on the pricing section.

A 3MF ships separated, filament-assigned parts, each carrying its intended colour in the part name (e.g. base (#1D3B57)). In the slicer you map each filament slot to your real spool — that's where the colour actually comes from. The preview colours are a visual approximation of that.

Set filaments 1, 2… to your actual spools after importing — the part colour is whichever filament you assign. You need as many filaments loaded (AMS slots or manual swaps) as the design has colours; with only one filament, everything prints as a single colour.

It didn't fit and was dropped to keep the model printable. Look for the warning — it names the control to change. Usually the fix is to enlarge the shape, shrink the feature, or change the keyring angle.

Engraved text has no separate mesh to grab. Switch the text style to Raised or Flat, drag it into place, then switch back to Engraved — the offset is kept.

This usually means you're offline (a bundled font or library couldn't be fetched). Upload a TTF or OTF font to continue, or reconnect and reload.

Use the fit control — set it to Loose if it binds or Tight if it wobbles, or enter a Custom clearance to dial in your printer once. To measure the right number instead of guessing, run Printer · safety → Calibrate hole fit and then set the fit to Printer profile. Both mating parts must be printed at the same fit setting.

That's correct. A stamp is a mirror of the impression, so the die reads backwards on screen and the inked print comes out the right way round. It applies to the Round seal too — the top and bottom arc text are mirrored on the die. Print it as shown.